Your Really Specific Luberon Questions and My Very Specific Answers
I get tons of reader emails and many of them are wonderfully specific. So I also give super specific answers.
If someone has a Luberon question, chances are, others are wondering the same thing. So I started this running list of Q&A, just for fun. I will update it regularly.
I can’t feature all reader questions, but below are the chosen ones. To respect everyone’s privacy, let’s keep it anonymous platypus, okay?
Meanwhile, if you’ve got questions, check out my travel planning articles – the answers might already be there.
Right now, my focus is to continue writing articles. If there are topics you need me to cover, please let me know and I’ll try my best to cover them. Enjoy reading!
From the Guy Who Wants to Retire in the Luberon (But Worries About the Heat)
QUESTION:
My wife and I are seeking a retirement community for potentially late 2024. Our only hesitation for Luberon will be the summer heat. How do you endure it? We live in the mountains of North Carolina at 3800 feet and prefer that over heat. Any advice?
ANSWER:
About the summer heat, yes, it’s a concern, but let me offer some insights. It was also one of my concerns before moving here.
If it’s any consolation, you’ll be relieved to know that the summer of 2023 was “better” and less intense than the hot months of 2022.
In 2022, we had record-breaking heatwaves or “canicule” (same as the rest of Europe). We had consecutive days and nights of intense heat–the kind where it’s hard to breathe. Local town halls advised people not to go out. The roads got so hot that a dog’s paws would burn if you walked them at the wrong time. (I love my dog, so I made sure I only walked him before 8am and after 8pm).
But hey, don’t be discouraged. Life here doesn’t stop when there’s a canicule. People just stay indoors (or in their pools), limit their time outdoors, or wait for nighttime. You’ll get the hang of it.
As for summer 2023 – I enjoyed it very much! No heat waves (thank goodness!), and it was much like other summers.
- Hottest month. August is usually the hottest. We love being out and about in the summer, so we do most of our exploring in June, July, and September. We also tell friends and family: Do not visit us in August!!!
- Stonehouse. Okay, this one was an aha moment for me. Remember I said I was worried about the heat before moving here? Well, what I didn’t know was, traditional Provençal homes are designed to stay cool.
You’ll notice a lot of Luberon houses are made of stone. I live in a stonehouse, which means it’s cool indoors even on a hot summer day. I work from home, and honestly, I’m not bothered by the heat.
Our stonehouse stays comfortable in the summer, with open windows and fans (no AC). But it gets really chilly inside during winter, so prepare for that. Our fireplace is always burning in the winter. We have radiators, too, but we try to use them sparingly. Electricity is very expensive in France in the winter.
I haven’t lived in a non-stonehouse, so I can’t speak for their summer comfort. As you probably already know, ACs aren’t as prevalent in France (or Europe) as it is in the US. But you’ll see Provençal houses with ACs, often those owned by foreigners or used as tourist rentals.- Adapt your schedule around the sun. Plan activities for the cooler parts of the day. The best hours are early mornings and the evenings. For example, if we’re going to the fresh market, we aim to be there before 9am. It gets sweaty hot around 10am and by midday, it’s unbearably hot.
So the way of life for locals is usually like this: Do your activities before 10am. Stay indoors the whole day and don’t go out until until 7pm.- Embrace long days. What’s great about summer is the sun doesn’t set until 9pm. And many nights are breezy – perfect for dining outdoors.
- Light, breathable clothing. I never expected that I would one day live in linen and cotton. Haha. Well, that’s what happened when I moved here. Linen dresses, linen pants, cotton shirts. My husband also loves his linen shirts and pants. So comfy.
- Mad about hats . Look, I was never a hat person, but voilà, I wear hats every day in the summer. I told my husband, “This is probably the only place where I feel comfy wearing a hat every day.” I mean, I didn’t wear hats when I lived in Paris or Normandy!
- Plants and trees. We have a lot of plants in our home and garden to help keep the air fresh and cool.
There was an instance last summer when I super appreciated trees. I remember it was a hot, sweaty day, and we ended up in Cucuron around lunchtime. If you google Cucuron, you will see their “postcard photo” of the village pond under huge plane trees. We dined at one of the restaurants around the pond. I was surprised that it was pleasantly cool under the shade.Overall, I’d say: Yes, it can get really hot in the summer. But it’s manageable…for now. (We never know what the future holds and how the environment will change). Plus, singing cicadas are synonymous with summers in Provence!
Anyway, the Luberon remains a popular retirement place…and I think it’s a good sign. And perhaps to many, the quality of life here is worth it.
My best advice? Experience a summer here before deciding on a move. Try staying in different villages to see what suits you best.
Read more: Winter in the Luberon, Luberon in September, Best Luberon villages to visit
From the One Nervous About Driving in the Luberon
QUESTION:
So we’re a little concerned with having a car but we do want the freedom and not having to just do tour group trips. I’m just trying to prepare us for the driving and figure out which golden triangle area location might be easiest base for driving.
ANSWER:
Unfortunately in the Luberon, it’s best to rent and drive your own car. Hiring a private chauffeur/tour guide is also an option, but it’s costly. To give you an idea, I’d budget 500-700 euros per day. I think it’s crazy (haha), especially when you can see and save so much more by driving.
In the Luberon, opt for a smaller car. It’s best for small roads and hilltop villages. (Yes, there are small and twisty roads but not all! There are also regular roads.)
Allow me share some driving insights from my friends who visited me:
1) They wished they had a smaller car. Their rental agency “upgraded” them to a big BMW SUV (so of course, they said yes haha). Sometimes rental car agencies overbook and so these upgrades are offered. If possible, stick to a smaller car.
2) I’ve noticed my American friends aren’t familiar with roundabouts. I just learned roundabouts aren’t really a thing in the US? There are lots of roundabouts in France. I suggest familiarizing yourself with the driving rules.
3) The Combe de Luberon had mixed reactions from my friends. Some loved it, some got a bit scared. So it’s a beautiful, twisty long road that links south Luberon and north Luberon.
If you look at a Luberon map, the south would be Lourmarin, Ansouis, etc,.. and the other side would be Bonnieux, Gordes, Menerbes, etc. It’s a twisty road. And in the summer, there would be all sorts of vehicles on the road–from vans and trucks to bicycles.
Don’t get me wrong – it’s a beautiful road and often, driving along it is a highlight for tourists. I wish I could show you a video.
So it boils down to where you want to go in the Luberon and what you want to visit. Base yourself in the Luberon side where the majority of your activities are.
4) All my friends said having their own car was worth it. 🙂 You really have freedom and flexibility.
Lastly, if I were to give a piece of advice, I would leave some spontaneity in your itinerary. The Luberon is a beautiful area where every village is different and sometimes getting lost or doing things unplanned is the best way to go.
Read more: Luberon without a car – a very detailed guide
From the Funny Lady Wondering What to Wear in Provence in September
QUESTION:
I want to not stick out like a sloppy American tourist (except for my terrible French lol) and was wondering if it’s best to wear casual longer dresses and pants/jeans and layers (ie vs shorts and leggings that we wear in the US all the time). What is acceptable/recommended for women and men?
ANSWER:
It’s cooler now, as opposed to the heatwaves in August. So I’d say, bring both long dresses and pants/jeans + light jackets. Layer up or down to be prepared for whatever the weather brings.
To be honest, I wouldn’t worry too much about attire. Because no one will care (and that’s the truth!). Locals are used to seeing tourists. Even Parisians are considered tourists around here.
But I get it if you want nice attire for photos and comfort…I mean, I do the same when I travel. 🙂
Here in Provence, my husband and I live in linen (cotton is great too!). I love my linen dresses and pants (in various colors, usually block colors. no loud prints). They’re light, flowy, comfy, and can be dressed up or down. If it’s a bit chilly or windy, I just throw on a denim jacket or a nice structured vest. Wear a straw hat, too, for sunny days. Bring sandals and sneakers (the latter especially for cobblestone hilltop villages).
My husband wears linen or khaki pants/shorts. And he has all kinds of linen shirts/tops. Anything goes, really!
Like I said, no one will really care what you’re wearing. And funnily if anyone judges you, it would be fellow tourists. Haha.
But if I’m being honest, I find it a bit weird when I sometimes see people wearing gym wear (like those cycling shorts popular in the US and Australia?). I’ve never seen one but if I see a man wearing Hawaiian prints (like the type you’d see men wear on a bachelor’s party in The Bahamas – true story, haha!), I’d find it funny.
But again, please don’t worry too much about clothes. Wear what makes you feel great and fab. 🙂 And if anyone insults you, give them the middle finger. I’m kidding. 😀
From the Mom Seeking a Baby-Friendly Vineyard
QUESTION:
We will be coming from Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and plan on spending the day visiting the Luberon villages before getting to Aix-en-Provence.
We are looking for a friendly, laidback setting that will be welcoming to our (sometimes loud) 13 month old. We love to drink wine but honestly are by no means wine experts and definitely not picky.
We are more interested in finding a chateau with beautiful grounds that we can sit outside and have a drink at vs an indoor tasting room. We are even fine with just grabbing a glass of wine vs doing a tasting and don’t necessarily need an explanation of the wines. Do you have any suggestions?
ANSWER:
Are you psychic? Yesterday, my husband told me that our 8-month-old godson (and his parents) will visit us in July. So Auntie Jenny better create a baby-friendly itinerary, stat! Then you emailed me. (I take this as a sign that I should write a “Luberon with babies/kids” article 😁).
Anyway, you’re in luck because I had already thought about your winery question before you emailed. (Our friends are Parisians – they also love wine!)
With a baby, you are looking to avoid places that are too crowded, too hot, and too boring. I get it – the baby is the boss! You would also want a place where you’re free to push a stroller (or pram), in case you want to walk in nature to enjoy the view.
So I have 4 suggestions for you:
1) Château de Sannes in Sannes – Good news and bad news.
Good first: They have a welcome center where you can have free wine tasting. The great thing is, there are tables and chairs outside. And you can walk around the château grounds – garden, lake, vineyard with windmill, and more. I personally love this place! Last year, they also had a lavender field where you can take photos. You can have a virtual tour of the property here. It will also help you visualize what the welcome center is like.
Bad news: They’re closed on the day of your visit. 🙁 I still wanted to inform you about this property in case you change dates.2) Domaine de Fontenille in Lauris
Gorgeous grounds! Has a Michelin Key hotel and restaurant. But also has a simpler restaurant called La Cuisine d’Amelie. They offer many wine experiences but I understand you’d prefer to skip this. Personally, I’d much prefer to eat in one of their restaurants (at the terrace, so not in a cramped restaurant space) with a gorgeous view and taste their wines during my lunch. Check out their site to see photos and videos – see if it’s the vibe you’re looking for.3) Château Val Joanis in Pertuis
It’s not an actual castle but more like a big farmhouse. But it’s worth noting because they have a beautiful “Jardin Remarquable” garden. After you taste wine, you can enter the garden for 3€.All three wineries are in south Luberon, which is the side of the Luberon you’d want to be on your way to Aix en Provence. All three also have huge grounds, considering it’s best for the baby to not be in confined spaces.
The thing with wineries is, the first touchpoint is usually a free wine tasting. Because their goal is to sell you a bottle of wine.
So you can’t just go in and buy a glass of wine EXCEPT if the place has an onsite restaurant, such as Domaine de Fontenille. When a winery has a restaurant, you’ll have the same view anyway whether you dine onsite or go for a wine tasting in the cellar. So for me, it’s more exciting to taste the wine along with a meal.
The other winery that has an onsite restaurant with a terrace (that I could think of right now) is La Bastide de Marie. It’s not a castle but a bastide or a huge Provençal country house. Lunch sets start at 50€. Check out the menu and photos here. But it’s in Menerbes, on the other side of the Luberon and will take you further from Aix.
If your priority is to taste wines without a wine tasting, go for a winery with a restaurant such as Fontenille and Bastide de Marie. Both have gorgeous grounds.
Right now, I could only think of Château de Sannes that ideally meets your requirement: “a chateau with beautiful grounds that we can sit outside and have a drink at vs an indoor tasting room.”
Read more: Luberon wineries worth visiting, Luberon wine 101
From the Wife Planning a 50th Birthday Surprise
QUESTION:
We will be located on a campsite in Charleval, which is actually just on the border of Bouches-du-Rhône and Vaucluse. I would like to surprise him with a visit to a domaine in combination with an overnight stay and tasting and/or dinner.
Preference is to stay at a location that has the atmosphere of a Luberon chateau, like La Canorgue, Château Saint-Pierre de Mejans or Fontenille, but not on a Michelin star level, that’s too fancy for us.
Since you know the area and the domaines very well, would you have any suggestions?
ANSWER:
Okay, so I have 3 possible accommodations for you.
I’m pleased you mentioned CHÂTEAU SAINT- PIERRE DE MEJANS in Puyvert. Because when you first emailed me, that was the first place I had in mind!
It’s one of the rare places here in the Luberon where you get to actually stay in the castle. Because some properties offer accommodation on château grounds but not IN the castle itself. In St. Pierre de Mejans, you get to stay on the second floor of the château. They have wine tastings and if you want to upgrade with charcuterie boards, you can also do that.
I just checked their website and they still have available rooms. If you’re already sure you want to stay there, quick, please book right away before they’re fully booked for July tourist season. There are only 2 rooms.
The only thing they don’t have is a restaurant. For this, I would suggest you drive 5 mins from the castle to the village center of Puyvert. There is an amazing little restaurant called Puyverre. I love this tiny place! It’s perfect for date night.
They have a “Surprise Menu” and you get served 3-4 courses of nicely plated dishes. The menu is about 50 euros per person. If you want wine pairing, you can add 35 euros per person. But you can also just order a glass of wine each, if you don’t want to drink too much.
In my opinion, for 50-70 euros/person, it’s SO worth it. You get that “special occasion” vibe, an element of surprise, and an intimate setting. It doesn’t have that “stiff, arrogant vibe” that some Michelin restaurants have.Also, if it’s a warm summer night, you can sit outside, under the plane tree. Plus, you don’t have to worry about driving home late because your accommodation is just 5 minutes away.
Puyverre’s food and wine are nicely done because it’s run by an experienced couple. The guy used to be a chef in starred restaurants; his partner is a sommelière. They’re not paying me to talk them up (haha), but I really like their place. You can check out their Google reviews here.
I think a Saint Pierre de Mejans-Puyverre combo would be very nice. I suggest you look into this toute de suite! 🙂
DOMAINE DE FONTENILLE is also lovely. While they offer accommodation, wine tastings, and onsite (Michelin) restaurants, I’m not sure this is the Luberon chateau vibe you are looking for. It’s more like an upscale Provençal farmhouse-turned-luxury hotel. Recently, their hotel has been awarded 2 Michelin Keys (like Michelin stars for restaurants). Hmm…I have a feeling their overall prices for hotel and dining will soar because of this new distinction.Another accommodation option is CHÂTEAU LA SABLE. It is between Lourmarin and Cucuron. A more quiet place and more or less, comparable with Château la Canorgue, which is giving off a “wealthy family house” kind of vibe, but not a medieval castle like Saint Pierre de Mejans. What I like about La Sable is, it gives more of a homey, bed-and-breakfast feel (affordable at €125/night!). Plus, you get to wake up on the chateau estate, surrounded by nature.
For dinner, you could drive to Lourmarin or Cucuron. Perhaps try Le Moulin, a hotel restaurant in Lourmarin. Honestly, I find their food hit-or-miss, but I forgive this shortcoming because they have a lovely, romantic terrasse where you can dine. In Cucuron, try La Dame Jeanne, another date night favorite of mine. 🙂 Tiny place with good Provençal food and a friendly, warm vibe. And you can have an amazing dinner for 30-40 euros per person. Once you’re done eating, you can even walk along Cucuron’s brightly lit pond for an extra romantic touch. Or you can drive to Puyvert to go to Puyverre! It’s not so far from Chateau la Sable.
Another option to stay in château grounds is Chateau de Mille, the oldest wine estate in the Luberon. But I would put this below your list because a) the accommodations are on chateau grounds, not the chateau, and b) they require a minimum of 3 nights.
I wish your husband a very happy 50th birthday. He’s so lucky to have you. 🙂
From the Photographer Looking for a Scenic Vineyard
QUESTION:
I am leading a group of American photographers to the Luberon and the Camargue this coming May. I would like to include a visit to a Luberon vineyard in our trip itinerary, but not just any old one!
Ideally, a private tour and tasting for 9 or 10 people, at a property which offers some great photography opportunities, for example an historic farmhouse, views among the vines, or with a beautiful backdrop. A tour in English is preferable but not essential as I am able to interpret for the group.
Would you have any suggestions of where might be suitable?
ANSWER:
Wow, a photography trip in the Luberon – exciting! Based on your descriptions, three places come to mind. Consider the following:
1) Château de Sannes – To me this place is super photogenic, especially the windmill amid the vineyards. They have a lake, a long treelined driveway, a chateau, a garden maze, and statues. I was surprised their indoor pool once went viral on Reddit. Last summer, they even offered their blooming lavender field to guests who wished to take photos.
The overall feel of this place is luxe. The kind where a nice South of France wedding might take place. My French husband doesn’t like it – says the place feels over-the-top. LOL. I beg to differ. I have a feeling this is the kind of place American tourists would love.
Last year, I had a chance to meet the estate manager at a wine festival. He was super friendly and based on our chat, it seems they’re trying to revive the estate and attract more tourists. They have a variety of activities all year long – music, art, and even fitness events.
So I encourage you to reach out to them directly and see what they can offer you. Since you are planning to go in May (pre-tourist season), maybe they can customise something for you.
2) Château la Verrerie – They pioneered premium wines in the Luberon. This massive estate has 56 hectares of vineyards and 7.5 hectares of olive groves. I like them because their oenotourisme is well done. Check out their offerings.
I think their History tour (vineyards + cellars + tasting of premium wines) is reasonable for 30 euros/person. It’s a 2-hour tour, but I imagine you would need more time to wander freely with your group.
Again, I would email them directly so they can offer exactly what you need. The guy in charge of oenotourisme (Vincent Pateaux) is very hands-on and responsive (check out google reviews – you’ll see what I mean).
3) Château Fontvert – If you’re looking for something more intimate and rustic, check this out in Lourmarin. It’s simpler (no flashy stuff like in Château de Sannes) but that does not mean it has less to offer. We often walk by the Fontvert vineyards on our way up the Lourmarin hills (amazing views up there!!).
The reason why I believe you should contact them is because of your common interest: photography. The owner’s wife (Corinne) is an American photographer. She’s also hands-on in the family business.
A few years ago, during the grape harvest, she asked Château Fontvert if she could take photos. It’s such a sweet story…and they’re very nice people (I’ve met both of them). Read more about their story here.
I have a feeling that if you contact them, Corinne might be able to best guide you from a photographer’s POV. Just a hunch.
From the Couple Hunting for Off-Season Rental Discounts
QUESTION:
We’re thinking about dividing the year into two parts, and spending January-May in Lourmarin, and June-December in Amsterdam. Do you know of any properties (or real estate agents for properties) available for the winter and spring, with discounted rates due to the off-season?
ANSWER:
I have 3 ideas for you:
1) Have you already tried looking at pap.fr? It’s a platform that offers commission-free (?!) rentals, among other things. But you need to submit a bunch of papers, which is like going through an agent.
2) Book 1-3 months via Airbnb, Booking, or VRBO, and do research when you’re here. Visit real estate offices and ask around the village. That’s how we usually get leads around here–ask a friend of a friend of a friend. 😀
3) Speak directly with an owner. I have someone in mind…
My husband and I have a friend who owns Airbnbs in Lourmarin. Nice and trustworthy. We stayed at his place many times.
His rentals are not in the village center, but still a short 10-minute walk away. We used to walk across the big field in front of the château to go to the weekly Friday market.
Anyway, it’s a quiet, private area surrounded by nature – has access to the hills and a little river. Even at peak tourist season in Lourmarin, that area remains quiet. Lovely place.
He has 4 rental properties. He offers off-season discounts (Nov-Apr) and accepts direct bookings, especially for repeat guests and referrals. He’s open to further negotiations for longer stays (more than 1 month), with discounts of up to 15% in high season and 30% in low season. He does ask for post-dated checks for multi-month stays.
Note: It’s a by-referral only deal. If you’re interested, email me and I can connect you to the owner.
From Someone Wanting to Visit During Quiet Period
QUESTION:
I’d like to visit in mid-March. Mistral still? Crowds bad? Some places closed because it’s before the season?
ANSWER:
Personally, I love mid-March here in the Luberon. Cherry and almond trees are blooming everywhere. It starts to get very green. And pollinators are starting to get busy. It’s a great time to explore nature.
Many villages are quiet, but for those of us living here, it’s a great time to village-hop as we have the Luberon to ourselves. And you’re right, a lof of places are still closed, especially hotels and gîtes. They use this time to renovate and upgrade their properties before the peak tourist season.
But that doesn’t mean restaurants and cafés aren’t open. If you go to the bigger or more popular villages (e.g. Lourmarin, Gordes, Cucuron), a few restraurants will be open.
For instance, last March and April, I often went to different cafés for breakfast. I loved the quiet knowing that I won’t have those moments when tourists arrive in June.
A caveat, though: While some dining places are open in March, I find their schedules unreliable. If you’re visiting during this time, I think it’s better to rent an Airbnb and cook food yourself.
Yes, there’s still Mistral but not daily. Nothing a good windbreaker can’t handle. I find that most days in March are very nice to take long walks.
From the Guy Looking for Wineries/Chateaux with Restaurants
QUESTION:
Do you have any suggestions for lunches at local wineries/ châteaux? We would all love a sit-down lunch at a beautiful chateau, trying their wines and eating beautiful french food.
ANSWER:
Unfortunately, it’s not really a thing in France, with the exception of hotels with a restaurant and a vineyard. Don’t quote me on this but I believe it has something to do with licensing. There’s one license for serving alcohol, another for having a restaurant…a tedious and costly process to get different business licenses.
Your best bet is to visit hotels with their own vineyard and restaurant. Here are two of the best in the Luberon:
– Bastide de Marie in Ménerbes
– Domaine de Fontenille in LaurisThere are also vineyards that offer dégustation with charcuterie boards (paid). Check them out here:
– Château de Saint-Pierre de Mejans in Puyvert – they offer a few choices for wine tasting, including gourmet tasting and a picnic.
– Château la Verrerie – wine tasting with picnicAnother interesting option is to go on a Sunset Vignerons, where winemakers will walk you around the vineyard, let you taste their wines, and cap it with some food. And as the event name suggests, yes, it happens at sunset. This event is from June-September (every Tuesday), and rotates among Luberon vineyards.
Lastly, there are some vineyards that have some cool events at night, if you’re looking for a relaxed, fun vibe. Live band, food trucks, that sort. Check out Domaine de Perreal, Château Val Joanis (apéro Thursdays), and Château de Sannes. Among these three, Chateau de Sannes has the most beautiful grounds.
If you’re interested in the best wineries to visit in the area, make sure you check out my list of best Luberon vineyards to visit.
That’s all for now. For information on what to do, where to go, and where to stay in the Luberon, check out my articles here.
Any topics you’d like me to write about? Email me and I’ll do my best to create articles. Thanks for reading!